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Water + Air : Iris Van Herpen

forge collective blog birds n bones jewelry
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- Elizabeth  Mikutowicz -
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Clothing designer and couture visionary Iris Van Herpen, whom we have featured previously for her earlier collections, is at it again! This time, with her collection Aeriform. This collection, designed for Fall/Winter 2017 marks her lines' 10 year anniversary. According to the master herself, "Aeriform examines the nature and anatomy of air and the idea of airborne materiality and lightness, creating negative and positive space with shadow and light."
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In this collection, we see dresses and garments formed with a range of seemingly unconventional materials from papery thin mylar to metal. She has taken these two-dimensional materials and crafted them into three-dimensional wearable sculptures. 
The papery thin dresses have thousands of little cutouts that are like the most advanced paper snowflakes you've ever seen. The cutouts resemble the gills or skeleton of a fish. There are dresses that feature translucent fabric that has a vellum like quality, and a white gown that had little suction cup-like details all over. There was another that was made of many layers of the most delicate fabric; it had a liquid quality to it and the edges just seemed to disappear. We even see dresses that appear to be made out of the most impossibly thin laser cut metal flowers. 
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iris van herpen aeriform
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iris van herpen aeriform
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iris van herpen aeriform
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iris van herpen aeriform
 
The range of materials used in this collection is a remarkable feat, not only because they are so unique, but also because it still maintains a strong cohesiveness and sense of self. Color is often used as a unifying theme, and we certainly see that in this collection with shades of black, white, gray, and silver. The materials and garments are manipulated in such a way that they have gentle curves and bends, pleats, are stiff and bouncy, but also drape beautifully, according to each garment and her intention.
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Styled with perfectly simple caged heels, these pieces are part boudoir with their sheer materials and revealing cutouts, part futuristic with their unconventional shapes and construction, and part fantasy in a way that only Iris Van Herpen can pull off. 
Like an extension of the collection itself, the runway show was accompanied by music from Danish (why is everything from Denmark so good!?) underwater musicians, Between Music. The musicians play underwater, in glass tanks.
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Between Music Aquasonic
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They bring to mind something from a scientist's lab, where humans are being grown or preserved. What is remarkable is that they have developed unique instruments designed to be played underwater, and a unique singing style, also perfected for underwater performance. The development of these instruments and their underwater stage was no small feat and was completed over the course of many years in collaboration with scientists, underwater divers, and instrument makers. They feature an organ or hydraulophone, crystallophone, rotacorda, percussion, violin, and simple vocals that are probably what sirens sound like. Of their music, Iris said, "Their liquid voices and the subsonic darkness from Between Music overwhelmed me. It motivated me to dive into the contrasts between water and air, between inside and outside, between darkness and lightness."
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At Birds N Bones, we too are fascinated by the relationship of opposing elements, their relationship to nature, and in particular, the dark and the beautiful. We love taking unconventional shapes and forming them in wearable art. Two pieces that encapsulate this from our latest collection are the Darkling Beetle Triangle Necklace and Weevil Stone Bottom Earrings
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Darkling Beetle Triangle Necklace Birds N Bones Jewelry
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Weevil Stone Bottom Earrings Birds N Bones Jewelry
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And you know we love us some behind the scenes videos, luckily Iris Van Herpen does not disappoint! 
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Haute High

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